[aprssig] Wholehouse Surge protection?

KBØNLY kb0nly at mchsi.com
Tue May 31 01:37:50 EDT 2011

Its not really a metal tube... It’s the thickness of two metal nuts and the 
panel side.  Either way you have to install a connector into the knockout 
and pass the wiring through the side of the panel, going PVC conduit 
connectors you still have nearly the same amount of metal.  We aren't 
talking a half foot of conduit or anything, just box to box with a couple 
nuts on the metal coupler on the box.

But that’s a moot point now as they changed to plastic enclosures, though 
they have a plastic nipple that goes into the box knockout and is fastened 
by a metal nut.  So almost the same amount of metal for the wiring to pass 

The main thing here though is follow electrical code.  Looking at the code 
here if I were to take a device like this and isolate it but then also 
ground it I wouldn't be up to code, it says all extensions or devices wired 
directly to the panel must be directly grounded to the panel.  Even my 
doorbell transformer is mounted in a knockout hole.



-----Original Message----- 
From: Glenn Little WB4UIV
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:16 AM
To: TAPR APRS Mailing List
Subject: Re: [aprssig] Wholehouse Surge protection?

Think about how and why we use ferrite beads.
You do OT want the extra inductance added by the
conductor through a metallic tube (choke).
This will impede the HF pulse of the lightning
event and reduce or negate the effectiveness of the suppressor.
You can ground the two boxes, just not with a choke.


At 12:46 AM 5/31/2011, you wrote:
>The Cutler Hammer unit is connected via a metal knockout connector and 
>that’s the recommended install, as a matter of fact I called their 
>support number and inquired about it, they told me that if you install it 
>without the units case being grounded to the panel I could be denied any 
>warranty/damage claims.  Considering the thousands of these installed I 
>would think they know why to do it this way. The GE units I have seen 
>install the same way, they are a metal cased unit which is fastened into a 
>knockout on the breaker panel, the GE instructions quote this is intended 
>for proper RFI shielding of the device, but I don’t know anymore than 
>that. 73, Scott KBØNLY -----Original Message----- 
>From: Glenn Little WB4UIV Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:36 PM To: TAPR APRS 
>Mailing List Subject: Re: [aprssig] Wholehouse Surge protection? Ensure 
>that you connect the surge panel to the breaker box wit PVC or similar non 
>metallic conduit. Metallic conduit will act as a choke preventing the surge 
>from getting into the surge suppressor. Most surges will be lightning 
>induced and lightning is a high frequency event. All grounds should be as 
>short as possible, number 6 or larger inside the building. Do NOT use braid 
>for a lightning ground as the high frequency event does not like the bends 
>back ad forth that make up the braid. In a previous life, I inspected tower 
>sites for lighting mitigation. When properly installed, a whole house surge 
>suppressor is very effective. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 11:52 PM 5/30/2011, you 
>wrote: >The Cutler Hammer is the one I recommend also.  Menards, Lowe's and 
>Home >Depot all carry them now, at least here all my local stores have them 
>in >stock.  Worth the investment ten times over in my opinion. > >I still 
>run UPS's on the computers and surge arrest power strips, not cheap >ones 
>either, on all the electronics and ham gear in the house, but having >the 
>whole panel one seems like a good extra step.  It's easy to install, >just 
>add a two pole (220v) breaker to your panel and the Cutler Hammer box >wall 
>mounts next to your panel and installs into a standard knockout, then >wire 
>the two blacks to the breaker and the white and green to the 
> >neutral/ground bus and your done. > >73, > >Scott KBØNLY > > 
> >-----Original Message----- From: Herb Gerhardt >Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 
>10:44 PM >To: 'TAPR APRS Mailing List' >Subject: Re: [aprssig] Wholehouse 
>Surge protection? > >I had some really bad voltage spikes one year when a 
>high voltage line fell >on top of a low voltage line after a car hit the 
>power pole.  Well that >surge turned my microwave oven to toast.  It burned 
>up the display and I >lost all confidence in it so replaced it.  The local 
>PUD (Public Utility >District) said I could fill out a claim and they might 
>pay for the damages. >Looked at the forms and decided it was not worth the 
>hassle..... > >I asked the local PUD if they had any recommendations for a 
>whole house >surge protector and at that time (about 10 years ago) they 
>said they had >not >found one that was reliable enough to recommend.  I 
>then went to the local >Lowes store and they had a Cutler Hammer Model CHSP 
>MAX surge protector >which is rated for up to 50,000 Amps/phase.  From what 
>I remember it cost >me >under $50 and I installed it myself in the main 
>panel.  So far I have not >had any more appliance damage from voltage 
>surges.  Yes, I still use the >small surge protector strips to protect my 
>computers and ham radios.... > >It is available from at: 
> >http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039ZJDRO/ 
>ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8& >me=&seller= for $80 now days.....  Just 
>search for CHSP MAX and you will >get lots of hits.... > > >Herb, KB7UVC 
> >NW APRS Group, West Sound Coordinator >Our WEB Site: 
>http://www.nwaprs.info > > > > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: 
>aprssig-bounces at tapr.org [mailto:aprssig-bounces at tapr.org] On Behalf >Of 
> >>Bob Bruninga >>Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 7:39 PM >>To: TAPR APRS Mailing 
>List >>Subject: [aprssig] Wholehouse Surge protection? >> >>Time for a new 
>topic... >> >>With lots of (APRS on topic) electronics at home, I wonder 
>about putting >in a >>whole-house surge protector.  ANyone with experience 
>there? > > > > >_________________________________ ______________ >aprssig 
>mailing list >aprssig at tapr.org >https://www.tapr.org/cgi- 
>bin/mailman/listinfo/aprssig > >_________________ 
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