[aprssig] TAPR Dayton Solar Talk

[KBØNLY]

Solar is getting cheaper..  However one point for those that read that well 
thought out email from Bob.

Grid tie solar is only functional when the grid is powered.  So in the case 
of a power loss it shuts down as well to prevent backfeeding the grid, so 
you can not be off the grid with grid tie solar.  However you can go with 
solar that uses a battery bank and a whole house inverter that has a grid 
tie option, when the grid fails it switches your household to the inverter 
and draws from the battery bank, like having an automatic transfer switch 
and generator but its an inverter and batteries charged by solar instead.

Lots of new options for solar these days and only getting cheaper!  Maybe in 
another 20 years I can afford it myself.. LOL

73,

Scott KBØNLY


-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Bruninga
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:56 AM
To: aprssig at tapr.org
Subject: [aprssig] TAPR Dayton Solar Talk

The AMSAT/TAPR banquet talk at Dayton was about Solar and emergency power 
for Ham radio.  In preparation, here are three ideas that amazed me that 
might amaze you:

1) This week by googling solar panels, I found PRIME home solar (UL 
approved) 220 Watt panels going for $1.39 per watt! (compare that to $6/w 
contractor installed systems 2 years ago...)

2) Even if you want to use bargain panels and bargain micro-grid-tie 
inverters, one way, is to pay a contractor to install the smallest fully 
approved and electrical-permitted solar system you can buy.  This  gets you 
fully legal, connected, grid-tied etc.  Then add as many panels and 
additional plug-in micro-grid inverters at your own DIY cost!

Just remember, to connect + to + in parallel, and + to - in series... and 
just plug in the DIY microinverters to the wall outlet.  (Note, the UL 
approved microinverters should be connected to a standard 20 amp breaker in 
your breaker box by a master electrician).

3) Amazing angles!  No-longer does SOUTH matter!!!

I hope everyone here has had the fun of playing with the on-line PVWATTS for 
computing annual solar ouput over any conceivable arrangement of azimuth and 
elevation angles.  I just compared a pure EAST/WEST facing roof to the 
optimum South facing, just to see how bad it would be.   AMAZING!  Here is 
the PVWATTS page:
http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/calculators/PVWATTS/version1/

DRUM ROLL:  A DUE EAST facing roof (with a 20 degree tilt) will produce 85% 
of the annual power as the ideal tilted southern array.  Amazing...

BUT!!!  SO does the WEST side of the same house!  So, unlike the southern 
home that can only use HALF his roof for power*, the EAST/WEST facing 
homeowner can generate 170% more power than the sourthern facing owner 
because he has twice the room to put the panels!!!  (Roof size and shade are 
the #1 limits to homeowner 100% production of their annual electrical 
needs).

*But wait, there's more!  Next for grins, I used PVWATTS to tell the power 
output from the NORTH FACING side of the South Facing house.  Who would ever 
even think of doing this?  But if the ROOF tilt is the typical low profile 
20 degrees, guess what?  The NORTH side of the roof can produce 60% (annual) 
of the south side!  So the homeowner with his low-profile southern roof 
maxed out with solar, can now increase his total annual output by 60% (with 
a double sized array (on a low tilt roof)). He produces nearly zero in the 
middle of winter from that side, but makes up the full 60% of his total 
capacity for that array in the summer!

Many hams who know that SOUTH IS BEST find it hard to accept this.  But do 
the PVWATTS calculations yourself.  Remember, the SUN comes up in the NE and 
sets in the NW during the summer when the days are 14 to 16 hours long. 
This means that for the 3 hours in the morning and 3 hours in the evening, 
the IDEAL Southern array is not even seeing the sun.  Sure, an east facing 
array will produce little in the winter, but for GRID-TIE, the ONLY thing 
that matters is ANNUAL total power.  and all these other directions make up 
for their poor winter performance by making MORE power in the other months.

Even laying flat on the ground will produce 80% of the annual power (but be 
a maintenance issue... Any panel should be at at least 10 degrees to assure 
rain-cleaning).

Back to the EAST/WEST facing house... Doubling the array to get the added 
160% may not have been cost effective in the past, but with DIY panels at 
$1/watt and DIY plug-in micro-grid inverters at about $0.30/W, it's so cheap 
to expand your array into less productive angles, why not!  DIY panels and 
added plug-in DIY microinverters can double the size of your "approved" 
array for probably 1/4 the original cost of your contractor installed 
system.

Putting panels on EVERYTHING until you get to 100% of your annual electrical 
load is the goal.  You can do it!  Look outside the "southern" box.  (But 
shade remains the #1 killer of even the greatest solar ambitions.  But as 
costs are so low, look again...)

Don't forget, the economics of homeowner solar is all due to GRID-TIE. 
There is not a single battery in the system.  Off-grid battery systems can 
only deliver about 33% of annual energy for the same $ investment plus the 
added burden of lifetime maintanance.  GRID-TIE is the only way to go (if 
you are on the grid)... Please see:

www.aprs.org/off-grid-maybe.html

Oh, and the BIGGEST FACTOR by far is the almost 50% Government Credits, 
Rebates and Grants that come right off the top of your installation costs. 
I would bet these are going to be gone in a year or two (my state has 
already reduced theirs by 1/3rd), beacuse the cost of home-solar produced 
power is now LESS than utility power (with the 50% incentives) and so 
EVERYONE is jumping into solar.  With tight budgets at all governmnet 
levels, do not expect these incentives to last.

Next week, I'll post slides from the AMSAT/TAPR solar talk.

Oh, and please come join the SolarDIY at yahoogroups.com discussion group made 
up mostly of HAMS going solar.

Bob, WB4APR

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