Exactly. Under non-ideal situations, without expensive single-use tools, solder seems to be a quite practical way to attach these connectors.<br><br><br>However, we are experiencing severe topic drift. I did end up with a small simple powerpole "harmonica" which I will use under the dash to break out the connections. I will be wiring a direct return path to the battery, with fuses at the battery in both legs. My main reason for this is that I don't want to end up with alternator ripple current expressed as voltage in my ground return. Also, I don't believe in the general idea of letting return currents pick their own path. They will take all possible paths, including through the vehicle cooling system potentially causing corrosion problems.<br>
<br>I also picked up a Whattmeter yesterday, which is a very cute little tool. <br><br>From Ebay arrived the switching boost converter which will charge the rear battery, with dropout set to fire when the alternator switches off and the bus power drops below 13.5V. Since those radios draw about 100mA at idle, and transmit very infrequently, the boost converter will do nicely at keeping that battery charged.<br>
<br>Now I just have to find another warm day to Git Er Done!<br><br><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Oct 30, 2011 at 7:52 AM, Lee Mushel <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:herbert3@centurytel.net">herbert3@centurytel.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">I do not question your conclusion or technical accuracy about crimp vs solder. However, I do question some of the assumptions made in drawing this conclusion. First, that the wire is suitable for crimping. Then, that a truly good tool is available. That the connector, tool and wire are compatible for the purpose and finally that the person doing the work is physically capable and understands what must happen.<br>
<br>
I contend that this is likely the case in only a small fraction of hobby situations. I think about the experiences I've had in the past thirty years and would never ever, as a hobby "elmer" ever suggest anything but solder. And that applies especially to me!<br>
<br>
73<br>
<br>
Lee K9WRU<br>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Skolnick" <<a href="mailto:dskolnick@gmail.com" target="_blank">dskolnick@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:aprssig@tapr.org" target="_blank">aprssig@tapr.org</a>><br>
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 6:16 AM<div class="im"><br>
Subject: Re: [aprssig] 12V wiring ideas<br>
<br>
<br>
</div><div><div></div><div class="h5"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
I was a hard sell during the transition from soldering to crimps. At<br>
one time I was space-qualified for ESD and soldering. I understood<br>
soldering. I had to change with the times. The spacecraft industry<br>
moved to crimps. The military moved to crimps. Properly made crimps<br>
are stronger electrically and mechanically than solder.<br>
<br>
Consider this article:<br>
<a href="http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination" target="_blank">http://www.pbase.com/<u></u>mainecruising/wire_termination</a> . Page down to the<br>
strength test. Somewhere in there the author cuts open a crimp - the<br>
material inside the crimp is compression welded. You won't get that<br>
kind of connection with solder.<br>
<br>
73 es sail fast, dave KO4MI<br>
S/V Auspicious<br>
<br>
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